Un medina submarino, muchas agallas, surfistas volando, tubos con dos tablas... Estos son los 10 instagram de la semana.
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Buttons Kaluhiokalani "A lot of the pro surfers, like Reno, lived up the street from me. It was different, and really cool growing up as a kid in Waikiki. Damn, are you kidding me? So much fun. I was a rascal brah. Kolohe boy, that means rascal. First wave I grew up on was the Waikiki Wall. As a little boy, I taught myself how to swim. Because at the Wall, you could go right on the side of the wall, and I had half of a full board that I found in the rubbish can, so I pushed myself against the Wall and rode waves all the way to the beach. From there I got a wood board that a guy named Stone made for me back in the day. It was a paipo board with fins. And the fins had door hinges on them. It was old school. It was a twin fin. And I would ride the wave all the way from Graveyard at Waikiki Wall all the way across, all the way to the beach. And I had a big fro. It was pretty awesome brah, I remember those days. Then I went to Baby Queens, to Queens, to Populars, to Kaisers, to Bowls as I got older. My magic board I would have to say is a Pat Rawson, 5’8" single fin at Pupukea sandbar. Roping from fricking Pupukea all the way through Ehukai. That’s a long wave. That’s pretty sick. That board from Pat, that was my golden board. He made me a lot of golden boards. So did Aipa, but Pat to me was the guy that made that one board, a yellow 5’8”. Oh my God if I could only find that board. That was the magic board, 5’8” Rawson v-bottom single fin. That thing killed it brah. I was like a Kelly Slater. It was a Local Motion board. I will never forget that board. My last great wave was last summer at Bowls when it was huge. I remember it closing out the whole channel. In fact that day I broke my board in three pieces and I almost drowned dude. Literally almost gave up. But this time around I got to surf it and got my butt kicked. That swell was huge. Most epic, gnarliest, drops and takeoffs. Literally in the air take offs and then landing them. I love that left brah. You know what’s so cool about it? It’s localized for one thing and we get waves. The boys. There’s just a little handful of guys that get waves. I’m fortunate.” BK interview by Chris Latronic @rawsonsurfboard
Una publicación compartida de Chris Allen (@oldsurfermags) el
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